Key Largo to Key West 

When it is cold up north, paddlers thoughts turn to warmer climates, and after reading an article in Kayak Touring Magazine on the new Florida Keys Paddling trail, I thought it a “Must Do” for the Christmas holidays.  Little information has been published on the route, but after contacting Florida Bay Outfitters in Key Largo, I was given the route by Monica Woll, who along with her husband Frank operate the neatest paddling shop in the Keys.  I purchased a set of Top Spot charts from her, and arranged for a vehicle shuttle.

I had several days to kill prior to commencing my paddle from Key Largo, so headed to my favorite spot on earth, the Ten Thousand Islands region of Everglades National Park.  Situated on the western boundary of the National Park, near Everglades City, it is one of the few places in the world that you can find solitude with just a few paddle strokes.  I wanted to test out my new boat (purchased from Atlantic Kayak, in Alexandria, Va.), a P& H Cappella sea kayak.  After much searching and paddling kayaks that were just a little too tight, I chose the Cappella 17-3 for its large cockpit, high volume and stability.  A two day trip would shake down the boat and see how my gear would work with it.  I chose a route from Chokoloskee to the Watson Place, a high ground camp site on the Chatham River, returning on the Gulf of Mexico via Pavilion and Rabbit Keys. 

 Every thing worked well, boat paddled like a dream.

Monday, 13 December.  Pick up my paddling partner, Cindy Smith at the Fort Lauderdale airport.  Cindy is the Director of Campus Recreation at Virginia Wesleyan College, and is always up for an adventure. She would accompany me as far as Grassy Key; from there she would meet me in Key West.  We stop by Florida Bay Outfitters to meet Monica, get some last minute guidance on the trail route, then head to John Pennekamp State Park to camp overnight.  Camping at John Pennekamp and other Florida State Perks is convenient only if you can stay in the confines of the 800 number reservation system.  If you don’t have a reservation, you probably won’t get in the most popular parks in the season.  On the Keys paddling trail, that would be John Pennekamp and Bahia Honda State Parks.  We have a reservation at Pennekamp, so camp with some of the most daring and vocal raccoons I have ever seen.  I catch two trying to get in the cooler; they stand their ground and screech at me instead of running off.

 Tuesday, 14 December.  Under way at 0900, to warm temperatures and light winds.  We launch from the Florida Bay Outfitters site, mile marker 104.5 on US1.  After a paddle through the creeks of Key Largo Sound, we are on the Atlantic Ocean side of the Keys.  Shallow depths and an offshore reef moderate the swells, so paddling conditions are very pleasant.  We find a convenient place to stop for a rest, and then it is on to Tavernier Key.  Tavernier Key is a small island just offshore Tavernier, very compact and shady.  Used occasionally by sponge fishermen, it is an adequate camp site, one that we would be spending more time at than we planned.  A cold front moves in at sundown, bringing with it northerly winds 20-25, with gusts to 35.  Temperatures fall to the 40’s, making for an uncomfortable night.

 Wednesday, 15 December.  We awake to strong northerly winds, cold temperatures and choppy seas.  Not the best day for paddling, or the safest, so we decide to stay put for a day until conditions improve.   

Thursday, 16 December.  Paddling away from Tavernier Key is like escaping from Alcatraz, it was a welcome refuge from the wind, but it grew awfully small as we stayed a day too long.  Winds have subsided to northeast 15-20; in the shallow waters near shore the chop is not too bad.  We stop at the Days Inn Islamorada to re-water and rest.  Pressing on, we near Lower Matecumbe Key as the afternoon winds increase, making for some rough paddling.  We stop for a break at what appears to be a resort beach, but find it is someone’s back yard.  The owners insist on us staying for the night, rather than paddling on to Long Key.  Their house and back yard beach is stunning, white sand and palm trees.  We make camp on their beach, then walk to the Calusa Cove Marina for dinner.  We meet some neighbors who show us an empty raft, used by Cubans to escape the Castro regime.  Many rafters attempt the crossing, using the Gulf Stream’s northerly currents to gain freedom in the United States.  Current immigration policy is “Wet Foot-Dry Foot”, meaning if they can make it ashore, they are granted entry into the United States.  If they are intercepted at sea, they are returned to Cuba.  The residents of the Keys have become used to the sight of sunburned refugees washing up in their back yards.  They are the lucky ones, as a large percentage do not make it, and perish at sea.

 Friday, 17 December.  As planned, Cindy and I part company to meet up in Key West.  The weather is forecast to be moderate for the next few days, with another cold front forecast to move through Sunday night, Monday morning, with more strong winds.  So after tonight’s stop at Grassy Key, it will be a dash to Key West to beat the wind. After a pleasant paddle to Grassy Key, I stay at the Seashell Beach Resort, a very nice motel that is “Kayak Friendly”, meaning if they know you will be arriving by kayak, they will make every effort to accommodate you if you are delayed by weather.  This was the case for me, and was resolved by one phone call. 

Saturday, 18 December.  57 more miles two go, and two days to do it in.  I hope to make at least 30 miles today, but am unsure of where I will be able to camp.  The route camp sites are at Molasses Key, not far enough to make 30 miles and Tarpon Creek, 37 miles distant.  Probably not enough daylight to make 37 miles.  I had seen several sites where one could probably camp, and hope to find something along the way.  I stop to rest at Sombrero Beach at Marathon, a very nice public beach with restroom facilities.  West Sister Rock is just off shore, and might make a camp site.  I did not stop at West Sister Rock, but it appeared as if some had been camping there.  Sombrero Beach makes a nice rest stop before the Seven Mile Bridge crossing.  Favorable winds hurry my crossing of the Seven Mile Bridge, and it is no time that I am resting on Molasses Key, a very nice camp site approximately 2/3 of the way across. 

As I press on, I pass Bahia Honda State Park, nice rest stop with public rest rooms, several places to rest.  If one wanted to camp, they would have to have a reservation, and only a few camp sites are close to the water.  I pass a public camp ground at mile marker 33, at a marina, and several spots along Long Beach on Big Pine key look very inviting to the kayaker looking for a camp site.  There is still several hours of day light, I have yet to make my “30 Mile” day, so press on, finally finding just enough high ground to pitch a tent on the west end of Ramrod Key, making camp right at sunset.  31 miles made today. 

Sunday, 19 December.  Start off paddling into a freshening Northwest wind, making for a rough crossing of Cudjoe Bay.  I gain shelter from the wind as I reach Sugarloaf Key, finding paddling conditions improving to “Unbelievably Great” as I near Key West. There are several nice rest stops along the way at Sugarloaf Beach, and Boca Chica Key.  I reach Key West in the early afternoon, taking out at Smathers Beach.  As you reach Key West, there is a sea wall for the first mile or so, with a sandy beach to take out at around mile marker “1” on A1A, the beach road.    

 For the joy of paddling in warm conditions, crystal clear waters, many sightings of marine life, the Florida Keys Paddling Trail can’t be beat. Each day I saw porpoise, manta ray, pelicans, cormorants, and many game fish. No other long distance kayakers were encountered along the way, so pressure for camp sites should be light until the State of Florida starts advertising the route.